How Does Hermès Get Their Leather?

Hermès, a name synonymous with luxury, has built its reputation on impeccable craftsmanship, timeless design, and the use of only the highest-quality materials. Among these materials, leather is perhaps the most iconic and essential to the brand’s identity. From the supple Togo to the exotic Porosus crocodile, Hermès’ selection of leathers plays a critical role in the desirability of its products. But how does Hermès source its leather, and what makes it so exceptional?

The Importance of Leather in Hermès’ Legacy

Since its founding in 1837, Hermès has been deeply connected to leather craftsmanship. Originally established as a harness and saddle maker, the brand’s expertise in working with leather evolved to include handbags, Hermes wallets, and other luxury goods. Today, leather remains at the core of Hermès’ offerings, embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and heritage.

The Sourcing Process Selecting the Finest Hides

Hermès sources its leather from some of the world’s most reputable tanneries, primarily located in France, Italy, and Spain. The brand’s criteria for selecting hides are incredibly stringent. Only a small percentage of hides meet Hermès’ standards, with the rest being rejected due to imperfections such as scars, blemishes, or irregularities in texture. 

For example, calf leather—a staple in Hermès products—is sourced from young animals to ensure a smooth and supple texture. Exotic skins, like crocodile and alligator, come from carefully regulated farms that adhere to strict ethical and environmental standards. These skins are scrutinized for uniformity in scale pattern and overall quality, ensuring a flawless final product.

Sustainable and Ethical Practices

Hermès is deeply committed to responsible sourcing. The brand works closely with its suppliers to ensure that all leathers and exotic skins are obtained in compliance with international regulations, such as those set by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). By adhering to these guidelines, Hermès helps support sustainable farming practices and wildlife conservation efforts.

In recent years, Hermès has also invested in creating its own crocodile farms, particularly in Australia and the United States. This vertical integration allows the brand to maintain greater control over the quality and ethical standards of its exotic skins. 

From Raw Hide to Luxury Material The Tanning Process

Once sourced, raw hides are sent to tanneries, where they undergo the intricate process of tanning. Hermès collaborates with tanneries that specialize in techniques that enhance the natural beauty and durability of the leather.

The tanning process involves several stages:

Preparation: The hides are cleaned, soaked, and treated to remove any residual hair and fat. 

Tanning: Depending on the desired finish, the leather may undergo vegetable tanning—a traditional method using natural tannins—or chrome tanning for a softer, more flexible result.

Dyeing: Hermès is renowned for its vibrant color palette. The dyeing process is meticulously controlled to achieve rich, even tones that resist fading over time. 

Finishing: The leather is treated with waxes, oils, or coatings to enhance its texture and protect it from wear and tear.

Each step is performed with precision and care, ensuring that the leather meets Hermès’ exacting standards.

Exotic Skins: A Special Case

The preparation of exotic skins, such as crocodile, lizard, and ostrich, requires additional expertise. Hermès employs highly skilled artisans who understand the nuances of working with these materials. For instance, crocodile skins are carefully polished to highlight their natural luster, while ostrich leather is conditioned to maintain its characteristic quill pattern.

Signature Leathers of Hermès

Hermès offers a wide variety of leathers, each with unique characteristics that appeal to different tastes and purposes:

Togo: A durable, pebbled leather known for its resistance to scratches and softness to the touch. It’s a popular choice for handbags like the Birkin and Kelly.

Epsom: A lightweight, embossed leather that holds its shape well, making it ideal for structured designs.

Box Calf: A smooth, glossy leather that exudes elegance but requires careful handling due to its susceptibility to scratches.

Clemence: Similar to Togo but with a softer, more relaxed drape. It’s often used for slouchy bag styles.

Porosus Crocodile: The most coveted of Hermès’ exotic skins, prized for its fine, symmetrical scale pattern and unmatched shine.

Hermès’ Commitment to Quality

Every piece of leather used by Hermès is subjected to rigorous quality control. Artisans examine each hide for imperfections and cut the leather in a way that minimizes waste while maximizing aesthetic appeal. This attention to detail ensures that only the best materials make it into the final product.

Moreover, Hermès’ dedication to craftsmanship extends beyond the sourcing and preparation of leather. The brand’s artisans spend countless hours hand-stitching, shaping, and finishing each piece, creating products that are as durable as they are beautiful.

Challenges and Innovations

The leather industry is not without its challenges, and Hermès is continually adapting to meet them. For instance, the brand has faced criticism from animal rights groups regarding its use of exotic skins. In response, Hermès has increased transparency about its sourcing practices and emphasized its commitment to ethical and sustainable methods.

In addition, Hermès has explored innovative materials, such as Sylvania—a mushroom-based leather alternative—as part of its efforts to reduce environmental impact. While traditional leather remains central to the brand’s identity, these developments highlight Hermès’ willingness to evolve in response to changing consumer values.

The journey of Hermès leather is a testament to the brand’s dedication to excellence. From sourcing the finest hides to employing time-honored tanning techniques, every step reflects a commitment to quality, sustainability, and craftsmanship. This meticulous process not only ensures the superior performance and beauty of Hermès products but also reinforces the brand’s status as a leader in the luxury market.

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Whether it’s a Birkin, a Kelly, or a simple cardholder, the leather used in Hermès creations tells a story of tradition, innovation, and unp